Bouldering v scale reddit. Grades really don't mean a whole lot--indoors or out.

Bouldering v scale reddit V3: Visited Hueco and climbed the definitional V3, Sign of the Cross. 6 months. g. 10 (If Silence legitimately has a V15 in it, B1 is now == V15, and Nalles Burden of Dreams is legit B3) The colors are nice because they tell you how the free climbing grades roughly correspond to the bouldering grades below. I met this guy the other day who is easily doing the V8's in the gym who has been climbing since September! That seems crazy to me, so I guess my question is: is there like a normal scale for how long you've been climbing vs. Grades can be subjective and may vary slightly between locations or setters. g Yellow is v1-2. You can get very good at campusing without actually being great at bouldering and vice versa. Is there a rule of thumb for translating grades? i. V grades don't work in indoor gym? I don't understand why gyms use V grades. Once you start climbing more you will be able to tell the differences in grades by just the feel of the route. your best bet will be to ask the gym staff, they might be able to point you in the right direction. ) Reply reply Spydrz • Yea, they claim about 1 grade overlap between grades, so if you were using a V scale 1-3, 3-5, 5-7 ect. Just compare a 5. Could anyone who also climbs at these gyms give me a rough rundown of how the colours relate to the V scale? I climb at Colored Tape to V-Grade Conversion I moved to Australia from the US and the climbing gym I go to grades their routes off colored tape which I think is standard. When people say they're a "V# climber", what does that mean exactly? If they're a "V7 climber", for example, does that mean that the hardest climb they've ever sent is a V7? Have they sent a few V7s in their style? Does it mean that they can generally send most V7s they try? If you're just breaking into a new grade (say normally you I don't think you can realistically compare isolated campusing on the v-scale like that. The gym claims it was an effort to reduce the amount of overlap of grades. B1 was as hard as the hardest roped moves of its time, which did check in around 5. The higher the grade, the longer it takes to get to the next one. My question is how do you think each color converts to a specific V-grade? RP grades between sport climbing and bouldering of athletes who do both also would be interesting. Imo this range is too wide to be useful for most people, especially at the beginner end. it doesn't even mention what outdoor bouldering areas were considered, which it varies a lot. I climb 95% indoors. Here's the link if you're interested. This bouldering grades comparison table is designed to help climbers convert from Hueco to French and back to French to V-Scale. Individual climbing areas can be sandbagged or soft. There are 18 letters between C and V in the alphabet, so I assume that C1 is around V-18 and so when you get to around C19 you should be around V1 in other gyms. Mar 17, 2023 · Bouldering grades used all over the world Below is a list of regions alongside which bouldering grading system they use. I climb at one of the Climbing Hangar gyms (UK) and have never been able to get the grading system totally straight. The higher the grade, the harder the route is. But here’s the thing – it’s not like a math equation where each grade is a neat step up from the last. This code is basically the same for all mountain related sports and that's convenient. Easy to read too much into it as a beginner. V3s outside feel easier generally than a v3 inside. Previously, each boulder had a tag indicating what the boulder was rated, either v0-v1, v1-v2, ect. Does anyone have anymore that could be added? (disclaimer to say grading can be rly subjective and qualitative so I did the best I could!!) Grading around the world Hello! I've started climbing around a year ago in China - They use the V grades here and routes are sometimes also set by other Asian route setters from Japan/Korea. Ide just like some clarity, thanks. Even if they have the same grading system in mind. All of the way to v8-v9 Now, they have changed their rating system to v0-2, v3-v5, and v6-v8. The home of Climbing on reddit. font I also from France and uses the same grades so it's a bit confusing but that's just the way it is I think the color coded (yellow, green, red, blue, etc) bouldering system in gyms beats the V scale and is less likely to discourage or confuse new climbers. I’m not sure if this is a bouldering system or a sport climbing system as the gym has both and I’ve not checked if the high wall has a separate system. Abolish coloured setting!! For "clean aid climbing" (i. It is a big gap from the perspective of the V10 climber, but is it really a big gap for the V16 climber? See full list on topbouldering. The color scale from easiest to hardest here goes from yellow, green, blue, red, white, and black. And yes we are scared of falling. I've been climbing since November at my college gym and am basically at a V4/V5 level and same with one of my friends that I climb with. Pennwisedom • In the Joshua Tree Bouldering guidebook, any climb below V0 gets a Yosemite grade and there are boulders going all the way down to 5. that said don't stress to much about grades, every gym will grade climbs differently, even if they use the same scale. e. What do these grades translate to in V-grade and British system? IMO there's no reason to compare bouldering grades to sport route grades, because they're completely different disciplines of climbing. Thank you! Am I right to assume the colors between edge grades distribute evenly with some overlap? (E. Been sending a few greens as of late at urban climb Collingwood. I think they set pretty difficult holds and moves If this is the wrong place for this question, let me know. Does toproping small crags count? V1-2: Built a woodie in a 3rd floor apartment in Chicago. V is only bouldering, V5 is font 6c+ V6 is font 7a font is the bouldering grading system that's used in Europe a lot, French is for sport climbing. Edit: Thanks everyone. What grade ranges do you think the colours match up with? No grade moralising. Well, gyms like Austin Bouldering Project that use circuit grading do it for the same reason. How does the v scale translate from indoor to outdoor? Going on an outdoor bouldering long weekend with a buddy who climbs primarily outdoors. Om jag fick gissa så är säkert blå V0-1, röd V2-3, osv. Aid climbing grades take time to stabilize as successive repeats of aid climbing routes can materially reduce the grade. There is nothing wrong with the v-scale rating system, there is an issue with how people use it. More specifically they were color coded by difficulty, but each color corresponded with a single V-grade. The grades at this gym were all on the V-scale. We have grades for inside walls (but they also follow the same colour code) and for outside climbing. It’s colour coded but with no reference at all to any of the more formal grading scales. Might be a bit of a long shot asking this here but might as well. 1, which in this case would be 9 grades below V0 Reply reply Ausgezeichnet87 • Reply reply Lunxr_punk • Reply reply Lunxr_punk • Reply reply 6spooky9you • Reply reply Lunxr_punk • Iirc, V grades are most often used in the US, and your gym is using a grading system more common in Europe. Fråga någon som jobbar på din klubb, de vet helt säkert. V4: Actually joined a climbing gym. Are US gyms soft? EU gyms sandbagged? Thing I noticed on this sub is that US gym boulders seem to be about 2-3V grades higher… Recently, my gym changed their boulder grading scale. Each grade conveys the difficulty of the route. Both indoor and outdoor bouldering is graded, but you’ll find that outdoor climbing will use either the V-Scale or the Font-Scale, which are the two most common bouldering scales 54 votes, 34 comments. My main confusion was the 5. Jun 5, 2023 · What Are Bouldering Grades? Similar to any type of climbing, bouldering is graded with a series of numbers and letters. The grades in a gym are just a subjective interpretation by the route setters, so difficulties varies a lot from gym to gym. Feb 14, 2024 · Learn everything about bouldering grades, including how difficulty is measured and the difference between different grading scales. 8+ in the Gunks to a 5. 9 pretty much anywhere else. Can anyone explain the climbing difficulty scale. At which grade did you start to plateau? When did you start seriously training? A question for those who climb at Blochaus (particularly in Sydney, but also Melbourne and Canberra). I consider myself an intermediate climber, not because of the grades but because when I attempt project level things it makes me realize I have so much gap in terms of technique and tactics. Spoiler alert: it’s a wild (and sometimes painfully humble) ride! May 31, 2025 · The V-scale, named after legendary boulderer John “Verm” Sherman, is how we rate the difficulty of boulder problems. 0+ scale and the V scale but I got it now. Bouldering grades: V scale and french grade conversion? Can someone help me get straightened out with the conversion from the v scale to the french (Font) scale? 70 votes, 153 comments. I climbed in two separate countries pre- and post- injury, and am trying to satisfy my curiosity with numbers about whether I've come back to around my pre-injury levels. Instead of having 2 grades (V0 & V1) that most people can do on their first day and having a grade they can project (V2) ABP has 4 circuits with the lowest difficulty being V0 or V1 (which, naturally is actually VB). So, let’s break down these mysterious climbing grades and discover what you’re in for at each level. 2 years of jugs on a 30-degree angle. Grading in gyms is also highly variable. I am not sure tbh, I climb at a relatively high grade level in sport climbing and yet I am way below that level in bouldering. Still not a good climber. Quit climbing gym in celebration. Consistency is a pipe dream. . notice how the outdoor grades are pretty well distributed, but it's the people grading in the gyms getting it wrong. A range of grades can be good for training and trying harder but grades follow an exponential curve in difficulty. While sport climbing has a wide variety of grading systems used by different countries, when it comes to bouldering, most countries have adopted either the Font or V scale grading system. The climbing hours only include climbing at your intensity and the rests between those climbs. Im a newbie and ive seen a couple of ways they are displayed. 1 year. Based off my experience climbing 5 or 6 V grades below my max, I imagine for someone like Daniel Wood the difference between V10 and V11 isn't any much more than the difference between V6 and V7. Maybe I'm dumb and it's all over the Internet, not sure why I had a hard time with this. V1-2 or 3 at most would be better Reply reply oboz_waves •. Unsure of the grades on them but love seeing my progression 🤗 anyone know what the grade of this would be? I compiled some bouldering-specific grading charts, cos on the internet there's loads for climbing but none for bouldering grades. Maybe with filters only including more than 10 in either discipline in the last 2 years or so. Especially for a newbie, pointing out the real role of grades is important: unless you are a world-class climber, the only role of grades is to help you find projects that you'll have fun on. I don't know many bouldering places, so it could be that it's not so small relatively but it feels small to me! My point being I don't think soft gym grades are doing a disservice to climbers, if anything I think the fear of outdoor climbing being harder probably inhibits more people from performing better than the soft grades. People often misuse grades to turn climbing into competing. I see all the time in instagram, people climbing v5 and v6s and a lot of people commenting the grade is not correct. What I like about my local climbing gym (wall) is that they have circuits in the main bouldering area. I got to boulder at the gym in Fukuoka for a day ("Rally grass" is how the pronunciation sounded to me, don't know the Japanese spelling of it, but I very highly recommend it to anyone). Nothing kills a nice day of climbing faster than someone focused on competing. Just wondering for anyone who climbs at a boulder lab gym in Australia, I know it can be difficult/inaccurate to make grading comparisons, especially because it varies from gym to gym, but what would be the rough comparison from boulder lab's 1-9 rankings compared to the V rankings in America? I had a hard time finding a chart online that converts the Sherman V-grade system for bouldering into the Yosemite Decimal System for climbing. Learn about climbing and bouldering ratings, including how route difficulty is measured and the difference between a rating and a grade. The Climbing Hangar, in Parson's Green. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. com This guide breaks down the conflict between the V-Scale and Font Scale, navigates the “conversion drift” where gym grades fail, and outlines a realistic progression timeline based on physiological data. I cant find any referance to a grading system like that, it might be one they made up for the gym. It also goes without saying that the gym grading is usually 1-2 grades softer than the outdoor benchmarks in Brisbane. General timelines indicate that from bouldering day one, getting to V4 can take a year, V5 two years, V6 three years, and five years to V7. So this is the only experience I have so far with grades. Reply reply This is a bouldering climbing grade conversion chart. Although there's quite a big gap between two adjacently graded circuits, they are quite consistent. 1. Warming up and socializing past your rest times would extend the total time. You may be able to find charts which give a general comparison of problem difficulty as graded by either system, because they're not 1 : 1. Im curious what everyone’s climbing progression/timeline has been like? How quickly did you progress from V1 to V2, and then V2 to V3 etc (not limited to bouldering grades). V5: Joined bouldering I Sverige använder vi inte V-skalan heller, utan franska grader, siffra och bokstav, 6a, 6a+, 6b osv upp till 8c+. I think I have a good understanding and that is that they should be taken lightly. grades you can climb? I mean, I V0: Had to wait ten years for the V-scale to be invented. Before reaching a 6C+ there's a town of option for beginners, at least 8 grades in my gym. Och vad olika färger betyder varierar mellan klätterklubbarna. Anyways, since I had a hard time I just made one. indoor v6 = outdoor v3? Just trying to establish some sort of idea where we should go based on what I'll be able to climb. Urban is notorious for soft grades up to red, with few and far in between for red, black and white meaning the skill gap is too high for regular goers to progress beyond soft reds. Grades really don't mean a whole lot--indoors or out. V6 grades Is it weird that I can flash most V4 and v5's at my local gym, but I haven't sent a single V6 yet? Well actually my gym doesn't use V-grades but V6 is like 7a french right? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. aid climbing equipment is used but only where the equipment is temporary and not permanently hammered into the rock), the most common system is the C-system (e. V5: Joined bouldering V grades don't work in indoor gym? I don't understand why gyms use V grades. I’d hate to be a V2 climber and spend most of the session totally baffled by whatever color I’d thought was appropriate to try. problems are labeled by difficulty, most places indoor use a scale of REC- OPEN for bouldering and outdoor uses the V scale which goes from V0 up the the hardest boulder that has been climbed a V16. or 2-3, 3-4, 4-5, hard to use the V scale to compare though Reply reply Cbastus • I go bouldering at a gym in Norway and this is their grading system. What are your thoughts or opinions on this system? After a long enough time only climbing "color grades" at your local gym, and seeing "real grades" in everything you read/watch online, you start to get curious. Most traditional grading scales will either be in Font or Hueco, the latter also known as ‘V scale’. Bouldering grades are graded using different systems across different regions. Om du vill konvertera boulderinggrader så är Wikipediaartikeln "bouldering grades" bra. I’ve been climbing about 6 years, but it’s been interrupted by a few injuries and covid and I’ve gone back and forth between top roping, bouldering, and leading, so I guess take this all with a grain of sand haha. The quotes in the URL are fucking up reddit's hyperlinking so just copy and paste. I hope this helps! The V-scale was invented in the early 1990s, bouldering was well on its way to being an independent discipline by then. That's it. Bouldering grade VS Sport Grade (and what to expect) Stumbled across this article and found it quite useful/interesting as I'm a sport climber who basically uses bouldering as a tool to get stronger. Personally, I think my gym sets pretty stiff. Few recreational climbers will reach V8. C3+).