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Carabiner for grigri While that's scary low since you could absolutely generate that in a pretty normal lead fall, it's still 5x-8x a normal bodyweight May 7, 2025 · We put 15 locking carabiners from Petzl, CAMP, Black Diamond, DMM and others to the test to find you the absolute best. However, oval carabiners also work in combination with a GriGri or other types of semi-automatic belay devices, as well as with nuts and more. Jun 10, 2019 · Is the DMM Ceros is the best locking carabiner to pair with a GriGri? Read this review on Evening Sends to find out. Carabiners are the unsung heroes of climbing. Here are our in-depth reviews! Having trouble with my gri gri crossloading. Jul 19, 2019 · I've been having problems where I accidentally crossload my locking carabiner (Petzl Attache) while belaying someone on lead. This only happens with my grigri, I haven't had problems with my atc albeit with a different locking carabiner (Camp HMS compact lock). Make sure that there is nothing nearby that the grigri could jam against that would stop it from properly braking. When using this carabiner with a Grigri, Black Diamond recommends that you clip the wide part of the carabiner to your harness, and the narrow end to the belay device: opposite the normal way you would use a carabiner. )". Attach a second locking carabiner to the anchor in a position above the grigri. Choice of carabiner for attaching a GRIGRI or NEOX to the harness Warnings Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. With this carabiner just a click and safety is guaranteed one hundred percent. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Aug 31, 2021 · We field tested 12 of the best locking carabiners in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. Oct 25, 2023 · Some people have noted for example that the Edelrid Bulletproof carabiner can impair the locking feature of the Giga Jul, and that the GriGri is susceptible to crossloading using HMS carabiners. Jun 26, 2021 · The grigri tether works for all models of grigri, but ever so slightly differently for each, but your materials will be the same. [3] The section of rope coming out of the top of your grigri is the Choice of carabiner for attaching a GRIGRI or NEOX to the harness Warnings Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. It has a metal spur that splits off the outside of the spine into a hook shape, paired with a spring loaded wire gate. The Petzl Sm'D twist-lock autolocking carabiner is lightweight, compact and allows for quick openings when you need to connect a Grigri® or other device. Now I don't know the correct shape to purchase. For those who wish to improve their climbing skills, the KIT CORAX GRIGRI Sm’D includes a versatile and fully adjustable CORAX harness, a GRIGRI assisted blocking belay device, and an Sm’D carabiner with TRIACT-LOCK locking system. Jan 16, 2025 · GriGri & locking carabiner Pre-tied quad on 180cm triple length sling & 2 locking carabiners Sterling Hollowblock (prussik) & 1 locking carabiner Petzl Connect Adjust w/ clove hitched HMS carabiner pre-rigged, for personal tether and extended rappel BD ATC Guide & locking carabiner, for two strand rappel and belay backup (2) spare locking Don't listen to any of these gumbies talking about how the grigri is better. My old harness also had a very wide belay loop, which made the GridLock sit very awkwardly on it, since the bottom of the biner was narrower than the harness. Gridlock carabiners have multiple options for closure systems, including screwlock and autolock. Petzl GriGri and locking carabiner for climbing: an unmissable offer! The most popular belay device for climbing paired with a locking carabiner at an absolutely crazy price! I got a DMM Ceros carabiner to prevent the possibility of cross-loading while belaying. One of Grivel’s best twin-gate biners for belaying is the Plume, but the wires are too wide to fit into a GriGri. Midway through the rappel he weighted and unweighted the rope which we think must have accidentally put the carabiner in a cross loaded position. Ideal for use with belay devices, the innovative, robust Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Triple FG carabiner has a steel insert at the apex and an internal spring bar that prevents it from twisting. Pretty much any locking biner works for a grigri because of the low profile attachment point. For a GriGri I'd use the cheapest D-shaped locking carabiner I have. Oct 22, 2020 · The Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner is designed to minimize cross loading. For the original tutorial I made 5, I used some thick 4mm cord, made a big hole in my grigri, and attached it to a normal BD Rocklock with a figure eight on a bight. I assumed I should buy another pear shaped carabiner, but in the Petzel pictures they show a D shaped carabiner. (In case you’re wondering what “HMS” means, it’s an acronym for the German, “Halbmastwurf sicherung”, which loosely translates as “Munter hitch belay” carabiner. Oct 1, 2018 · This horn helps prevent some belay devices (a Petzl GriGri, for instance) from sliding onto the carabiner's spine. Our team of climbing experts leverages more than 40 years of combined climbing experience, styling alpine ascents and performing rescues with the Yosemite Search and Rescue. If you put your harness belay loop behind the small internal gate, the GRIGRI can still crossload. Make sure that the rope is correctly oriented in the grigri. ” What is the best carabiner for a GriGri? Petzl has several recommendations for their products. The Pilot is simple, light, and perfect for what it does. Make sure the carabiner is locked and the GriGri’s orientation is correct (lever on the left, plate on the right). The best carabiner for most people is CAMP Photon Wire. Feb 15, 2018 · Grivel’s twin-gate carabiners create safer, faster and stronger biners and have been on the market for a few years. Press the carabiner open and clip it through the attachment holes on both of your grigri’s side plates. Carabiner for a Gri Gri 2? I lost my standard issue ATC and pear shaped carabiner, so time for an upgrade. But, if it makes you feel better using a specialized carabiner, go ahead. They get beaten to a pulp and still save thousands of lives each and every day without receiving the slightest bit of gratitude or appreciation for their wonderful form and function. 2) Add a locking carabiner to the right bolt and clove hitch the rope to it. You can’t cross load this carabiner, and it is super helpful when lowering heavy climbers cuz you can easily add friction to the rope by passing it through the side. I personally use the BD gridlock and would recommend any HMS biner with a locking feature like the DMM belaymaster. When using it, there is no need to recheck it during the course of the activity. But when all is said and done, the best carabiner for a GriGri I use one with my grigri, because that tends to cross load the carabiner more, but its a bit more hassle to take on and off your harness, which you will be doing a lot with a tube device. See Figure 1 for photos of the various brake hand positions with the Grigri throughout testing. . May 4, 2021 · Try a "D" carabiner with your Grigri Out of habit, many climbers always reach for a large, pear shaped, “HMS” belay carabiner anytime they are belaying. All things climbing carabiners demystified! Feb 2, 2022 · In practice, I have found my grigri is a lot more prone to moving around the carabiner and cross loading compared to any "manual device" (sticht plate, tuber, ATC, ATC Guide and Pivot). Sep 19, 2022 · The 10 Best Carabiner For Grigri of 2022 Before making a purchase decision, we strongly recommend reading through the features of each Carabiner For Grigri and picking one that will work best for you. This guide highlights five carabiners well-suited for use with Grigri systems, offering a range of designs from lightweight D-shapes to locking screwgates and traditional bent-gate models. Contrary to popular belief, a carabiner is not just there for you to clip your water bottle to the outside of your pack, your keys to your belt loop or your dog’s I have the same carabiner, and enjoy its mechanism while cleaning with a leash outside. For an ATC or any similar device I'll use either a BD RockLock or (more often) two regular BD Ovals opposite and opposed. 2 - Clip an ascender to the rope above the Grigri. Its safety is its best feature. Mar 29, 2019 · Here’s a similar technique, useful if you have twin chain anchors. You’ll need something to drill the hole, a carabiner you’re going to be attaching to and some cord. I this a problem with my technique or is there something about grigri's and/or Petzl Attache's that make them more likely to cross Rappelling with GRIGRI and NEOX Multi-pitch rappelling with a single rope Belaying multi-pitch routes on single rope with a Using the GRIGRI/GRIGRI + with a low stretch Belay technique: taking up slack Choice of carabiner for attaching a GRIGRI or May 6, 2025 · We bought the nine best carabiners and tested them side by side on alpine peaks, sport crags, and stellar multi-pitch climbs. 1) Rig the middle of the rope through the master point, as for a normal rappel. Apr 16, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Read the full article on Grivel lab. May 20, 2020 · The best carabiner for the Grigri can prevent dangerous situations when belaying and rappelling. Nov 8, 2023 · When you’re not glacier climbing, it works perfectly with a Grigri, as the little “horn” prevents the carabiner from being cross loaded The standard recommendation for clipping to the rope for glacier travel is to have two opposite and opposed carabiners, at least one of them locking. Each pick emphasizes clip ease, device compatibility, and durability in alpine, sport, and Note that the GRIGRI should always go on the small side of the carabiner, behind the internal gate. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. Jun 21, 2023 · The Petzl Sm’D Twist-Lock Carabiner is a small asymmetrical D-shaped locking carabiner with a dual-action gate. D-shape or Type B (basic): D-shaped carabiners soon replaced their oval counterparts, offering a higher load bearing capacity and simplified handling. I would say its not the most protective piece for gri gri use though… when i bought my first carabiner to belay, i was told that the shape and size of petzl’s William-screw lock carabiner adds some safety as well as reduced wear while using a gri gri. GriGri with a Petzel Freino for the carabiner if you have the money. Sep 15, 2020 · A dedicated belay biner can make a world of difference. The grigri is over hyped. . Seriously, there's no need to overthink this. It hits the key marks most climbers seek Jun 23, 2020 · Discover insights in "Carabiners to be used at the waist to belay with a device (tube, gri-gri etc. Check out our 8 top picks and some helpful tips Choice of carabiner for attaching a GRIGRI or NEOX to the harness Warnings Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. We cover the options to help find the right one for you. Jan 8, 2019 · The Petzl Frieno is an auto-locking carabiner designed for use while belaying. With the Clepsydra, you only need one. Read our four top picks for the best belay carabiner and treat your partner to a deluxe belay! We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Note Jun 23, 2020 · Clepsydra L ANGELIKA RAINER (Italia) I always use it to belay with the Grigri at the crag. Dec 4, 2020 · An incredibly awesome in-depth beginner's guide to rock climbing carabiners. 3) First person down can now rap on a Grigri on the left strand that’s “fixed”. Last person removes carabiner and rappels on both strands with a tube device. In the video you linked carabiners were still breaking at over 1000 lbf in absolutely horrible leaver or nose hook configurations. You clip the rope into it so it starts to de-sheath the ice off of the rope. Dec 13, 2023 · Delap notes: “One way to fix the ice problem is the Freino Carabiner (the $45 carabiner that keeps the GriGri in a position that’s better loaded). When closed, the twin gate Dec 15, 2021 · Attach the grigri to the anchor’s master point with a locking carabiner. Feb 7, 2019 · 1 - Feed the rope through your Grigri, and attach the Grigri to your belay loop with a large locking carabiner, just like you would for belaying. I only own a harness, shoes and a calk bag. It was so common I bought a belay master crab specifically for the Grigri to prevent this. The rounded, full-section top bar is robust and enables smooth rope handling. (Note that the ascender is usually for your non-dominant hand; ie, right handed climbers bideally should use a left handed acender. This braking spur is meant to be used to add friction in certain belay scenarios in order to increase braking control, but can only be used with single rope setups, and so doesn't help when Feb 29, 2024 · Choosing the best belay carabiner is all about the right shape and size to match your device. Mar 1, 2023 · To maximize the usage of the Grigri, it must be paired with the right carabiner for safety and protection of the climbers. Jul 17, 2025 · Belaying with a Grigri device requires a reliable carabiner that combines locking security with smooth clipping. May 24, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Jan 3, 2024 · Attach the GriGri to your harness’s belay loop using a locking carabiner. As this third test series (with redirect carabiner and brake hand applied) represents how the Grigri is employed in practice during a lower (Petzl 2023d), the authors elected to continue with these parameters for subsequent tests. This article recommends some of them. Today, thankfully while not on an actual belay, I was playing around with it, and accidently clipped the cam handle of the Grigri behind the retaining clip on the Ceros. It’s small size and lightweight design pair nicely with the larger and heavier GriGri. I wasn't paying that much attention to the orientation of the Grigri to the rope and I can't remember if it happened as a result of Jun 5, 2025 · Put the carabiner through the grigri and screw the gate closed. You must have already read and understood the information in the Instructions for Use to be able to understand this supplementary information. What carabiner will stop this? Sorry, this post was deleted by the person who originally posted it. Aug 15, 2019 · The DMM Rhino is our favorite carabiner to belay with, especially when belaying with an active assisted braking device such as a Petzl GriGri or Trango On the decent my friend was using a GriGri and a grid lock for his rappel setup. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. FRANCOIS CAZZANELLI (Italia) It is my inseparable climbing partner at the crag. Screw the cylindrical piece all the way into place over the carabiner’s gate to secure it in place, so it won’t come unhooked while you belay a climber.