E11 climbing grade. 14bR] standard with a very long fall and big swing .

E11 climbing grade When Scottish climber Dave MacLeod made the first free ascent in 2006, it became Britain's first-ever E11-graded route, and at the grade of 5. —all aim to reflect a combination of physical and technical demands. It’s intuitive if you’ve climbed in the UK, but puzzling at first glance elsewhere. The most commonly used On 16/05/2025 Czech climber Adam Ondra made the first-ever flash ascent of a British trad climb graded E11, Lexicon at Pavey Ark in England. Free, instant climbing grade converter to help you understand foreign grading systems. Climbing is fun, and there’s no denying that. 14a) graded route (Darwin Dixit in Margalef, in 2008), [1][2] and for climbing one of the hardest traditional climbing routes in the world (Rhapsody on Dumbarton Rock, graded E11 7a, in 2006). Knowing how one method relates to another is sometimes difficult. The E grade system has been criticized in recent years for being non-linear, especially in the upper grades where a wide range of difficulty Oct 30, 2008 · New conversion for E-grades The current grade conversion between the upper E-grades and sport climbing is not correct or all these upper E-grades have been devaluated, i. 12a (7a+), for example, is the same as the difference in difficulty between a 5. On one hand, sport climbing grades provide a scale of difficulty which Bouldering grades are a way to measure the difficulty of climbing problems, helping climbers gauge challenges and track progress. climber Billy Ridal has repeated Rhapsody, the first climbing route to receive an E11 grade. 14bR] standard with a very long fall and big swing Dec 28, 2024 · Bewildering, subjective, unnecessarily complex, just plain mad! All of these insults have been leveled at the British grading system for traditional (trad) rock climbing. If in doubt when visiting a new area, err on the side of… A list of all the trad routes E10 or harder that have currently been climbed, including details of the first ascent. Fifteen years later, Neil Gresham made the first ascent of Lexicon in the Lake District, grading E11. The numerical technical grading describes the hardest (crux) move on the climb. Safety is […] Jul 8, 2025 · How does the traditional grading system work? The system for grading traditionally protected climbs in BMC guides is the traditional, two-part British grade, a combination of the adjectival and technical grades. So why haven't E grades progressed?. Most grade systems are specific to a certain style. It set a grade milestone in Nov 5, 2020 · Do you know why a something described as 'Very Difficult' is easier than something labelled 'E1'? Or why the grade E2 5a can elicit shudders whereas HVS 6a brings forth a rueful smile?!In order to understand UK trad grades, it’s useful to also understand the concept of the French grading system (usually used for sport and indoor climbing). Research your climbs with our climbing grade conversion tool now. At E11, Lexicon is one of the hardest trad routes in the world, and was first climbed by Neil Gresham in September 2021. MacLeod is known for being the second-ever person to free solo a 8b+ (5. It is an incredibly bold route, featuring climbing around french 8c in a position where you can't afford to fall off. Australian: used in Australia and New Zealand, this system ranges from 1 (easiest) to 35 Mar 5, 2023 · Rhapsody was first climbed by Dave Macleod in 2006 and was the first route in the world to be given the grade of E11. g. He has free-soloed 5. With its grade of E11- the maximum difficulty on the British trad grading system- it had in those days marked a new difficulty for this type of climbing. Please remember that grading a route is very subjective to the location and the person giving the grade. It was one of the hardest trad routes in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring hard, intense climbing with the potential for huge falls. Over the past 17 years, several climbers have repeated it, including Sonnie Trotter, Steve McClure, Jacopo Larcher, James Pearson and more. Coming from our frustrations of always trying to figure out what grading systems are used in which country and what do they mean in your own system, we have created this simple but hopefully helpfull comparison table. Convert North American climbing grades to UK and European scales, and compare bouldering V-grades to roped climbs. S. Jan 28, 2022 · Climbing grades describe the objective difficulty of a climb and are organized into grading systems based on the climbing style and the region. 12d (7c) and 5. Mar 31, 2022 · In 2006, Dave made the first ascent of Rhapsody at Dumbarton Rock, grading it E11 7a — the first of its grade in the world (UKC article). Apr 22, 2024 · Together with first-time climber Dave MacLead, he sets off to Dumbarton Rock to get a feel for the “boldness” of the first route rated E11. These grades provide a shared language for climbers, making it easier to compare May 19, 2025 · The ascent, Lexicon's sixth, is the hardest trad flash of all time, and took place with no prior inspection of the holds. The adjectival grades range from Easy to E11, while the technical grades range from 3 to 7b. There is a risk of a 20 m fall onto a narrow ledge. 14c) in Malham, UK, and Climbing is an exhilarating and challenging sport that attracts adventurers from all walks of life. Each one is largely assigned to a particular discipline, and understanding how they work and relate to one another can be very confusing. The route, which can roughly be translated to 5. IMPORTANT – Below is a very rough table and it is impossible to provide an accurate conversion between technical difficulty of the hardest climbing – a sport grade/UIAA/USA grade – and overall difficulty of the full route experience from approach through climbing, conditions and descent – Alpine Grade. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Echo Wall is a hard trad climb located high on Ben Nevis and established by Dave MacLeod in July 2008. Climbing Grades Compared>> Online Conversion Dec 10, 2019 · Having checked it out on an abseil rope myself, I can vouch that the difficulty of the climbing equates to F8c/8c+ sport climbing, and that is more than enough to earn the E11 grade if it is protected with trad gear, regardless of the fall potential. 14c sport in Spain and established V13. An E-grade (Extreme) captures the route’s overall challenge (exposure, gear, commitment) while encouraging real-world decision-making. He also has climbed 5. The climb starts by climbing the majority of Requiem (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up Jul 8, 2025 · How does the traditional grading system work? The system for grading traditionally protected climbs in BMC guides is the traditional, two-part British grade, a combination of the adjectival and technical grades. The most controversial grades of all. co. What this rainforest site lacks in sheer height makes up for in variety of routes. A project of Ron Kauk's before he suffered an injury which stopped him trying the line. See full list on guidedolomiti. It was the first time that this level of difficulty was specified for a self-protected route. Convert rock climbing grades between French, YDS, British, and UIAA systems. Rhapsody is a 35-metre (115 ft) long traditional climbing route up a thin crack on a slightly overhanging vertical basalt rock face on Dumbarton Rock, in Scotland. 14c (8c+), Rhapsody was the world's hardest traditional route. “I have named the route Rhapsody and graded it E11 7a, the climbing is about F8c [5. It is an open-ended system that runs from Easy (doable by virtually anyone) to E11 (which has been climbed by Rhapsody is a trad route at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland first climbed by Dave MacLeod in 2006. Created in 2006 Dave MacLeod with Rhapsody (E11, 7a) on the Scottish Dumbarton Rock an ultimate trad test piece. It may seem confusing to those not used to the system, eg, climbers who might have only Nov 1, 2024 · The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) is a grading scale that evaluates the difficulty of hiking and climbing routes, especially for mountaineering and rock climbing. Whether you're a seasoned climber or a newcomer to the sport, understanding the different climbing grades and difficulties is crucial for selecting routes that match your skill level and ensuring a safe and enjoyable experience. Jun 22, 2025 · U. Familiarise yourself with the differences. K. While working on the first ascent Dave Macleod would hike to What's the Deal with British Trad Climbing? || E Grades Explained Little explainer of British trad grades, enjoy! Aug 27, 2024 · Website DescriptionJames Pearson suggests hard E11 for Echo Wall Tuesday 27th August 2024 A few weeks after his second ascent of Echo Wall on Ben Nevis, Scotland (news and interview here) James shares his thoughts on the route and, in particular, the grade. egrader. I run rock climbing courses in the UK and abroad and have grown up from a young age steeped in the world of trad rock climbing and my aim in this blog is to give you a brief overview of the basic rules governing the UK Jun 10, 2024 · Grade Converters Bouldering and Lead Climbing Grade converters and other tools for rock climbers. First ascensionist Dave MacLeod chose not to grade the route he climbed in 2008 but said it was the hardest he had done at the time and Discover hidden site aspects with multiple Climbing, Caving and Abseil activities. Two weeks later, Steve McClure made the second ascent, but not before taking taking a huge seventy foot fall from the route's penultimate move. 13a (7c+). 13d and repeated E-desperates throughout the British Isles. Two weeks after Neil Gresham claimed the first ascent of Lexicon E11 7a in September 2021 (UKC news), Steve McClure repeated the line, taking a 70ft whipper in the process during an earlier attempt (UKC news). Still to this day it is considered one of the most difficult trad routes ever, and in ten years it has only counted four repetitions. uk After being established in September 2021, through the following autumn and spring, Lexicon – the UK’s latest ‘E11’ saw what felt like a flurry of repeats, by some of the most experienced hard Trad Sep 28, 2023 · Crown Royale is an E11 Trad climb at Profilveggen in Norway. Oct 23, 2023 · Discover the intricacies of climbing grades with our comprehensive guide. The YDS scale divides routes into classes based on the physical effort, technical skill, and risk Apr 4, 2023 · So while sport climbs have progressed from 8b+ to 9c, in the same timespan British grades have only moved from E9 to E11, despite an unarguable improvement in overall ability: this generation of climbers are operating at superior French grades than the generation of the late '80s and early 9'0s were. This Apr 29, 2024 · Learn everything about climbing grades and quickly convert any climbing rating with our free climbing grade conversion chart. This Oct 12, 2021 · On September 4, Neil Gresham grabbed the first ascent of Lexicon (E11 7a) at Pavey Ark in the UK’s Lake District. Mar 19, 2024 · The British E-grade system is rumored to be one of the most sophisticated methods for classifying trad routes, yet it is also surrounded in myth, causing many new climbers to be baffled by its workings. The climb starts by climbing the majority of Requiem (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up Climbing Grade Conversion is a versatile tool that is designed to assist climbers in navigating the complex grading systems used in rock climbing and bouldering. Scary doesn’t necessarily mean lethal, however, and subsequent videos of the crux whip have highlighted the wiggle room within the E11 grade. Dave Mac Leod climbed ‘Rapsody’ (Technical Grade: 7a, Adjectival Grade: E11) in 2006, the most difficult route to date. Introduction www. 14. ) Rhapsody is a trad route at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland first climbed by Dave MacLeod in 2006. Including Grade Wike & Table. Whether you're a beginner or a seasoned climber, our climbing grade conversion cha Aug 27, 2024 · The Extremely Severe grade is also broken down into 10 further sub-grades from E1 to E11. Get help comparing bouldering, sport, and trad climbing grades. The difference in difficulty between a 5. [3][4] In 2006 I climbed the first trad route in the world to get the grade of E11. Mar 30, 2024 · British Trad Grade We can’t talk about trad without addressing the elephant in the room, British trad grades. Below is a Sep 25, 2023 · Pop in a climbing grade, see its global equivalent, and climb on with gusto. the opposite of free climbing), the most widely used system is the A-grade system (e. Dave MacLeod (born 17 July 1978) is a Scottish rock climber, ice climber, mixed climber, and climbing author. 14c climbing with 70-foot fall potential — Dave MacLeod succeeded only after two years and numerous ankle-smashing rippers. ???????????? The grade comparisons indicated in these tables will not always be exact. I wondered if I Jan 1, 2025 · There are several methods of grading how difficult a climb is. Jun 5, 2023 · If you have done any climbing, either in the gym or outside, you will most likely have run into the concept of climbing grades. Developed in the 1950s in Yosemite National Park, this system was created by rock climbers to standardize ratings for various routes. There are grade systems for bouldering, grade systems for sport climbing, grade systems for aid climbing and so on but even grade systems for the same style don’t always translate well between each other. The British E grade system is a unique grading system used primarily in the UK for grading traditional rock climbing routes. Learn how bouldering V-scales compare to YDS for route climbing, understand the journey from indoor to outdoor climbing, and explore international grading systems. e. The classic misconception is that routes with higher E-grades are always more dangerous, yet, in reality, the E-grade blends difficulty and danger in order to make an overall assessment. Jul 20, 2020 · The adjectival grade is the first part of the grade, which gives a sense of the overall difficulty of the climb and is influenced by various aspects. Please keep in mind that this table is only to be used as a guideline Apr 4, 2023 · Website DescriptioneGrader launched - Rebooting E-Grades with linear consistency Tuesday 4th April 2023 Why it’s maybe necessary, and how it can be done. Jun 15, 2022 · E11, for those unfamiliar with British trad-climbing grades, is a fearsome number that roughly translates to scary 5. E12 = 9b+. The route's location high on Ben Nevis necessitates some tricky tactics to make the most of the fleeting season. You will have the opportunity to try different climbing techniques on natural; Smearing slabs, lay-back flake, arete and face climbs, off-width crack through to proper chimney cracks. But by not paying attention to the rock climbing grade, you’re essentially risking your safety and that of Online Conversion Tool for Climbing Grades & Bouldering Grades: Trad Grade, UIAA, French Sport Grade, Boulder Grades, American Scale & many more. A3+), which was recalibrated in the 1990s as the "new wave" system from the legacy A-grade system. Originally ascended in 2006 by Dave MacLeod, the route has since been climbed by several notable climbers, including Sonnie Trotter, Steve McClure, Jacopo Larcher, James Pearson, and others. If you already feel confident in your knowledge of Feb 26, 2021 · A guide to the eccentric world of climbing grading, looking at grade comparison, what the different systems mean and why it's all just so unusual! Mar 19, 2024 · The British E-grade system is rumored to be one of the most sophisticated methods for classifying trad routes, yet it is also surrounded in myth, causing many new climbers to be baffled by its workings. It may seem confusing to those not used to the system, eg, climbers who might have only Mar 25, 2024 · Learn how to convert climbing grades, common challenges, and resources for accurate conversions. The line then waited an incredible 10 years before receiving a second ascent from Carlo Traversi. Indeed, as there are many climbing styles, many grading systems have emerged throughout climbing history to cover the different types of movement and technologies climbers use to ascend varied terrains like rock, ice, and snow. Jun 8, 2020 · Website DescriptionWhat’s in a grade: How do grades work and do they matter? Monday 8th June 2020 How do Climbing Grades Work? Climbing has a bewildering array of grading systems. Nov 14, 2022 · Meltdown is an E11 Trad climb. com In aid climbing (i. Climbing grading systems are an integral component of our sport. Gresham is no stranger to cutting edge ascents, having climbed Rise and Shine (WI 7) in Kandersteg, Switzerland, established Sabotage (8c+/ 5. These include everything from seriousness and sustained gradient, to technical difficulty, exposure, strenuousness and rock quality. 8a suggests a new grade conversion; E12 = 9a, E11 = 8c+, E10 = 8c, E9 = 8b+, E8 = 8b, (For lower grades it seems like the E-onsight grading system works fine. Mar 5, 2024 · Dave MacLeod - E11 trad climber, author of two bestselling books on training for rock climbing, climbing injuries and climbing coaching. Nov 1, 2007 · At E11 7a, Rhapsody requires 5. Beth Rodden then invested substantial time and energy in to the line before making the first ascent in 2008. Convert a climbing grade with easeTo convert grades, enter the grade into the input, select the grade system (french, yosemite, v-scale) and hit "convert" Lexicon is an E11 Trad climb at Pavey Ark in the United Kingdom. After a handful of working sessions spread Apr 5, 2023 · So why the need for this new tool? The French System and Yosemite Decimal System are linear. The app is suitable for both novice and experienced climbers and offers a user-friendly interface that is easy to navigate. In this comprehensive guide, we'll delve into the intricacies of British (Traditional): this complex system includes two grades: the adjectival grade (overall difficulty) and the technical grade (specific moves' difficulty). Local anomalies exist within countries using the same system so attempts to correlate between different systems, which frequently originated around different styles of climbing, stand little chance of tying together. While the grading systems vary by region—like the Fontainebleau system in Europe or the V-scale in the U. 11d (7a) and 5. 14 with an 80-foot fall potential, was his first of the grade. Nov 18, 2020 · In 2008, Sonnie Trotter repeated Rhapsody E11 and reflected on the meaning of "E" grades in the 2008 December issue of Gripped magazine Used in: UK traditional climbing Format: Mod, Severe, VS, HVS, and E1 to E11 The British grading system blends physical difficulty with seriousness. Feb 9, 2024 · Bouldering grades can either be the bane of your existence or can push you to climb harder.