Is slab climbing hard reddit. which might be why it's been unrepeated for 23 years.

Is slab climbing hard reddit Slab for technique? Hi everyone, I’d like some of your opinions regarding a discussion I’ve been having with my climbing partner. you'll learn from slab climbing is invaluable imo, but yes, it is a scary prospect to slide down the wall catching your face and groin on protruding V-beginner handholds. If you learn a few tricks, you’ll find yourself much better equipped to take on big days out on friction slab or that weird slopey problem at the gym. Climbing slab requires good technique, precision, and trust in your abilities. I have only climbing in relatively hard shoes (Scarpa Vapor), but am looking to move into some softer shoes, to improve technique and foot strength. Also, proficiency in Valley climbing is proficiency in all crack sizes and slick slab/face climbing. I love slab. One thing I've always wondered, what's the "gold standard" for higher end bouldering when it comes to shoes? I've always liked the softies because I can feel a lot more. I consider myself a fairly high level boulderer. I've also been to gyms that grade soft--especially in the v0-4 range in order to appeal to new climbers. Jun 8, 2022 · Here are our six keys to master-class slab climbing. For me it was a mental thing. I climb about v7-v9 overhangs preferring medium crimps and big moves, however if the slab climb is comp style or just not crimpy I have a hard time flashing v4 or higher Board climbing can teach you some core fundamentals such as body tension from your toes to your fingers, as well as teaching you to try really fucking hard to stay on the wall (which isn`t something that happens a lot in say slab climbing), contact strength is also a big positive from board climbing that translates to other climbing, as well as Since you mentioned slab, I'm assuming you are also climbing outdoors. Reddit's rock climbing training community. The you’re probably not climbing it like a slab. Available on iOS and Android devices! MembersOnline Ledges are so hard to grind upvotes ·comment r/ClimbingCircleJerk r/ClimbingCircleJerk Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour MembersOnline I used my own harness at the gym and got banned upvotes ·comments r Reddit's rock climbing training community. A comment about the "drop the heels" rule: it works for friction slab or smedgy footholds, but if you're climbing "steep" slab (closer to vertical), this won't work as well because you're relying more on edging than pure friction. And how could you judge the angle of a wall better from a picture, than being there in person? And since I have used mostly stiff shoes for all my climbing, even on tenuous slabs, I feel like I’ve trained myself to trust my feet even with less sensitivity. Beyond that, he had a series where he focused hard on his weakest style spoiler it was slab. What Is Slab Climbing? V8+: Is hard to distinguish, at least at my current level. I find it very therapeutic and a much better experience than big burly muscley climbs. I've been climbing a few years almost entirely indoors and on slightly overhanging to very steep walls meaning I have heavily neglected climbing slab. After just climbing for two months I’ve progressed to v3. With the v3 slab, it could also be a technique thing. I only ever really climb slab when I compete at university competitions. Why do people think only friction slab climbing counts as slab climbing? Most of the worlds hardest slabs, are close to vertical with athletic movements on small holds. The problem is the reliance on climbing grade indoor, they are so different from outdoor that it's very hard to compare. Get your hips into the wall and rely on your feet. I am an average height, pear-shaped chick, who prefers verticle slabs, dihedrals, and cracks. Board climbing is a great way to get stronger for climbing but it is a very 1-dimensional style of climbing. The best way to the RNWF is in one push since the hauling on the route is terrible. If climbing is training your core, your core is limiting your progress and you can improve climbing by training core muscles. My weight is probably the biggest issue, I am 210 lbs @ 5’9 but a lot of it is muscle (powerlifting background). Good low level setting is really important to get new people into the sport! Heavier individuals tend to experience more finger strain. Struggling on slabs (6A to 6B+) I'm by no means a hard climber but I figured I'd get the most straight forward answer here to diagnose the problem. 337 votes, 50 comments. And yes we are scared of falling. . 14+ slabs exist in Spanish granite—but one of the hardest slabs in the U. Read, follow, and absorb them, and you may just learn to love climbing without holds. Either camp at the base or go car-to-car. 13c which might be why it's been unrepeated for 23 years. Does your gym have slab climbing? Mine doesn't, really, especially not the bouldering area. Hi y'all lately I resoled my grandstones who previously had C4 rubber, it was good rubber for smearing on slabs even if it wore off pretty quickly. Reply reply Twoodeep • Definitely keep practicing. FULL SNAKE DIKE/HALF DOME TRIP REPORT – SUMMIT 9/2/2022 – LONG READ The entire story is broken up into many replies to this thread, read as much as you want. I like it because I have adhd and usually a very loud and "busy" brain, climbing slab forces you to slow down, breath and be calm. While the softer angle enables climbers to place more of their body weight on their feet, slab climbs maintain the challenge by having smaller holds. trueBe as welcoming and supportive as possible. they are extremely expensive for what they are. With every grade the holds get harder and the techniques coincide with climbing strength, like upside down knee bars. I get by primarily with passable technique and footwork and okay finger strength, none of which I seem to be able to transfer to climbing on anything worse than a shallow overhang. Some of the earliest forms of rock climbing were on large easy-angled slabs encountered by climbers while 103 votes, 64 comments. my shoe lineup is: aggressive-ish sport/bouldering shoe (like miuras), slabby smearing shoe (mythos would work but there are much cheaper options, I use 5. I boulder pretty hard but struggle on moves way below my limit on sport. Because of how malleable and soft that rubber is, this made it really perfect for slab climbing and smearing. Been pushing back into the V8 range after taking a year off of climbing during covid, which generally seems to be my plateau. The muiras will be good for outside slabs/small feet etc but they just aren’t designed for hard overhung bouldering - especially indoors where basically every hold is slightly sloped. For outdoor, I would have dedicated shoes for slabs vs overhang. He claims that slab climbing is a sure-fire way to improve climbing technique (greater awareness of body position, balance etc). The majority of people, though, even at a high level of climbing, are not nearly specialized enough to warrant not training a core climbing movement for fear of gaining mass. Good footwork is just an extension of good body positioning, as you need to know how and where you can place your feet to find that best body position. The model that’s best for you depends on a variety of factors, including on your body type, climbing style, how hard you climb, the type of rock you climb on, how many different pairs you want to own, and how much money you want to spend. On training walls, look for horizontal transverse routes with slabby footholds, being closer to the ground might help with the nerves. if this route is really shabby you be able to get you vent over your feet really solidly. When I started I could do v2 and muscle through some v3s Now my technique is vastly improved but I’m still climbing v3s and can barley do some v4s. Also surprisingly durable for a high performance shoe, lasted 8 months before I resoled them could have probably pushed it another month or 2. I'm 182cm / 6'0", weigh about 95kgs / 210lbs (I come from a powerlifting background and still train powerlifting alongside climbing). Cause that's what pistol squats are, a core movement for vertical and slab climbing. Sep 22, 2021 · Slab climbing is hated by many but loved by the dedicated. Especially since a lot of gyms in the US "tweak" the difficulty to not have beginner stuck on the V0/V1 (which, as you saw, is a quite decent level already outdoor). Many climbers underestimate the importance of core muscles in climbing. A big day, either way. The official Reddit community for the physics based skateboarding game True Skate. Finally rediscovered climbing recently in dec 2023. I am terrified of heights and get scared a lot on Slabs are worth getting into. S. May 26, 2021 · Below we’ll look at all the nuances of slab climbing; what makes a good slab climbing shoe, what’s the best temperature for slab climbing and what to look for in a slab climbing shoe, as well as a guide to the best slab climbing shoes on the market. In rock climbing a slab climb (or friction climb) is a type of climbing route where the rock face is 'off-angle' and not fully vertical. Ive got a 6'1" strong but slender guy friend who loves overhangs and anything he can handjam. Here in Italy 5. On the other hand, short powerful sequences on a steep wall can suit someone bigger quite well as the holds are generally bigger. is graded just 5. Consider top rope to bouldering! Consider slab climbing! Will lessen the impacts of weight. Of course the power and strength can still improve your lower angle abilities, but why aren't there boards at vertical/slab angles to be able to train that style in the same way? Is there practical reasons or Hi climber folks! This question is completely out of curiosity. I always wondered if there is a corrilation between your body type and how it effects what type of climbs you prefer. Eventually hard slab requires weighting micro footholds and handholds, which is difficult when you have large feet and hands. Soft shoes on the other hand have less support, making standing on tiny foot chips much more difficult. For climbing hard slab I recommend getting very confident with your footwork. In a world so consumed with image and ego, it’s really cool to see someone be humble and do things they’re not exceptional at. Indoor slabs often are so different in climbing style that people who don’t really engage with that style, probably won’t learn the fundamentals of it and thus never be good at it. On a techy vert or slab, that strength can't save you in the same Slab is a style of climbing, not a type of hold. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. It often requires lots of careful balancing, and precise movements, often on a wall that slopes slightly away from you. For slab, it's good fo have shoes with neutral profile and sticky rubber, since you'd be smearing a lot. This is difficult to pick up where you don't have glacier polished granite. I've been heading down the crack climbing rabbit hole (as much as a Texan climber can) and thoroughly enjoyed the process. I decided to go for a normal fit rather than downsizing because I wanted to use it for smearing/slab and longer climbs like multipitch. For bouldering, you'd probably want more down turned shoes (but again depends on local rock) for heel Bouldering shoes come in all shapes and sizes. If that's all you do, you'd be missing out on getting other types of movement on slab, slopers, volumes, etc. However it seems most of the folks pushing high double digits generally trend toward stiffer shoes Could it be a mental block? I started climbing in 2019, climbed for a year, pandemic hit, stopped climbing when gyms closed. Classic roofs however? If you are in the area, City of Rocks, NM has a V7 slab I did that was fucking amaaaaazing! I think it's called Urban Legend and is in the guide book for the area. Dec 7, 2023 · A 5. Some gyms have powerful overhung climbing setters who set pretty easy slabs. As per title, I'm awful at climbing anything on an overhang (V4-6 on slab/vert, V3-4 on overhang). Slab - how hard does it get? Since moving out to California I've started climbing a lot of slab and have been loving it. in slabs my footwork is good enough (due to climbing a loot of slabs in my youth and climbing in the slick swabian jura). But if you're psyched on it, giv'er! Hiking the slabs up to North Mountain can feel V5 sometimes. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I also find slabs/mantles intuitive and easy by comparison to overhangs and really squishy stuff. V9 usually takes a few tries, i can knock out most 10s in a session or two. And falls are more Hi, So I’ve been climbing pretty regularly for about 2 years now. The accuracy, balance, flexibility etc. The hard slab redpoints the best thing to do is to get on the pitch before its in the sun, so anything frictiony on the Apron or at Shannon Falls you should be fine before noonish. 1. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. 490 votes, 96 comments. This reads more like a non-fiction story than a route guide, but oh The solution is still my favorite sport climbing shoe that I have tried, precise and makes me feel confident on even the smallest feet. I also completely don't understand slab climbing because I just don't do it often. Nov 27, 2025 · Discover what is a slab in rock climbing and learn how this unique technique challenges your balance and precision on less-than-vertical rock faces. Showing and following examples of larger climbers on social media can help. Some setters are really good at slab and therefore set really hard sandbagged slab problems. Another friend is 5'11 This past season I got my first v12 and really the major thing I did is rest more. I had only been climbing like a year at the time and not climbing very hard grades, but I couldn't pass up on that price. I would climb about 2/3 days a week often times taking 2 days minimum between climbing days to be completely fresh to tackle my outdoor projects. Can climb most V4 slabs in a few attempts and all V3s but can't even touch many V4s that require actual skills. you might be aware of your center but you’re not applying that awareness effectively. If you're climbing cave problems, you can keep band-aiding your climbing with more power/strength, at least to a certain extent for a given level of technique. Been climbing for about 8 years now, primarily indoor bouldering with some occasional trad/sport and bouldering outdoors. I'm wondering if the scarpa Drago would be a good first soft shoe, or if it would be too demanding on my toes and overall foot strength? Dec 7, 2023 · A 5. Nothing gets the blood pumping more than being 25 ft above your last bolt on friction moves. I could only ever do max v2s. This barrier is frustrating, but given my time on the wall I understand I just need to keep at it. It was fun to see him progress to slab climbing as hard as he climbs non-slab. 15lbs later I do well on overhung stuff, but now face climbing is hard. I used to do much better on slab/face and got tired of sucking on overhung stuff so I did a lot of strength training. Most people don't go to Hueco for the classic slab climbs. The home of Climbing on reddit. i think that's a really important fact and i struggle a lot with it. I've been focusing on slabs for quite a while and haven't had this happen to me yet. I'm just curious why there aren't really training boards for slab climbing. As long as your climbing days have a goal or purpose taking a few days between climbing should keep you fresh to improve. One major drawback for training boards that I see is that the training only really applies to steep climbing. I would skip the mythos. There are some videos of Nalle climbing really hard slab that would be worth checking out. I think it would be helpful to have more variety on different types of terrain as a beginner. Nov 4, 2025 · Difficulty of Slab Climbs - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. 10 moccs), and an all-around performing all-day trad shoe good for a mix of crack and slab, like a TC pro TC pros or similar pretty much supplanted the moccs/mythos in Are aggressive downturned shoes mandatory for hard bouldering? In all the old master of stone videos, everyone is climbing hard in those purple mythos. The Dawn Wall isn’t slab, so the technique isn’t identical, but it’s worth looking at the foot positions there as well and there’s awesome footage available. 10 rubber is impossible to get and my resoler used la sportiva vibram Edge by mistake because I asked for vibram xs grip 2 which is similar to C4 and not hard like edge. You cannot train slab footwork in the gym, its impossible. Also start minding your footwork more on other problems, so you can incorporate that into slabs. 15a slab was recently established on UK slate, and 5. Often you can't judge how hard a move is without actually trying it, because micro changes in a foothold could change how much strength one needs to do the move. This is an incredibly long-winded full trip report, from trip planning to summit, if you don’t care about anything else, the route report itself starts at Part 3. For reference, I have been climbing for two years. The techniques themselves won't transfer, but I think that the importance of technique gets emphasized by climbing slab. I feel like my climbing has improved so much since having them - even when I wear my tarantulas again - because they taught me what it feels like to actually trust my feet.